Tackle Box logo
Most bass anglers practice catch and release fishing, handling their catch with care and releasing it quickly so that it may be hooked and fought another day.
Reliable
Releasing
BY DAN ARMITAGE
(Above) Most bass anglers practice catch and release fishing, handling their catch with care and releasing it quickly so that it may be hooked and fought another day.
A combination of one of the most productive months to go fishing, free no-license-required fishing days offered by many states, and the fact National Fishing & Boating Week is celebrated each June means that lots of folks will be introduced to the sport this month. While most of the related activities will be focused on teaching people how to catch fish, I’m going to skip that subject for once, and discuss what to do after that act. You have two choices: keep the fish to eat or let it go back into the water. The latter is referred to as catch and release fishing, or C&R. This is when the fish is unhooked and released to (hopefully) survive and thrive and perhaps be caught another day.

C&R is a popular practice among anglers today in both fresh and salt water, especially when targeting gamefish species that are sought and caught simply for the sport they offer at the end of the fishing line and are rarely kept to eat. While many of the most popular released species are found in salt water, such as bonefish, tarpon and billfish, plenty of freshwater fish are more respected for their fight than as table fare and are often released by the anglers who target them, including bass, muskellunge, pike, carp and trout. Some fishermen release their catches voluntarily, others are regulated to do so when wetting a line in waters that are designated as “catch and release only,” where anglers must return to the water every fish, or designated species, they bring to net.

Also practiced when anglers catch species for which the season is closed, or when the fish’s size is outside the allowable limits for keeping, C&R is an important conservation tool.

For example, to assure future stocks of the popular species, several states close bass fisheries in the spring when the fish are spawning. Anglers who catch a bass at this time must immediately release it so that the fish can return to the nest and continue to protect its eggs or proceed with other activities related to spawning. Minimum, maximum and slot size limits are also imposed on some waters for targeted fish species at certain times of the year, and caught fish that fall outside of those allowable limits must be released.

The reasoning behind releasing a caught fish is to allow it to return to the population and continue to benefit. A released fish’s capacity to do so is dependent on how healthy the fish remains after being set free. A fish that has been gut hooked, dropped on a boat deck, kept out of the water too long, or mishandled before being released isn’t likely to survive, let alone get back to assuming its intended role in the local ecosystem.

Studies show that most of the released fish that don’t survive are hooked deeply and/or are handled roughly during the removal of the hook. Hooking a fish deep inside the mouth can tear the gills or puncture the gullet or stomach lining, and rough hook removal can compound the damage. That has led some experts to recommend cutting the line as close to the hook as possible on deeply hooked fish, leaving it embedded rather than trying to extract the hook. The argument for that method is that the metal hook would eventually rust away, or the fish’s enzymes would eat away at the metal or that tissue would grow around the hook and render it a non-issue.

young boy smiling and holding a fish
This young angler knows the proper way to hold a fish, supporting the belly and the head horizontally, for a quick photo before releasing his catch.
two men looking at a fish and getting ready to release it back into the water
Most muskie anglers release their catch boat side, often using special cradle nets so the fish can be unhooked and released without being removed from the water.
Other studies have shown that simply cutting the line is not always the best solution because hooks left behind can impede feeding and cause infection. The latest recommendation from some biologists is to do what you can to remove all hooks, even those deep inside a fish, with the absolute minimum of handling.

One of the best ways to reduce deep hooking and excessive handling in the first place is by using circle hooks when fishing with bait, which fish tend to swallow deeper than when fooled by artificial lures. Traditional J-type hooks impale a fish wherever the point comes in contact when the angler pulls on the line to set the hook – including deep in the throat. Circle hooks, on the other hand, are designed to wrap around a fish’s outer jaw structure, an area composed of bone and membranes with few blood vessels. When a fish inhales a baited circle hook and turns to run, the angler reels the line tight – not setting the hook with a yank – and the hook slides back out of the throat and catches around the edge of the jaw. Studies have even shown that the hook-up ratio with circle hooks can be higher than with J-hooks when used for species such as striped bass, catfish, and several saltwater gamefish. Upon release, the circular hooks are easier to remove because the hook eye and line are already outside the fish’s mouth.

Some fly fishermen reduce release stress by using barbless hooks or crimping down the barbs on flies tied on conventional hooks. You can do the latter with hooks used for bait fishing or on lures. Another stress-relieving tactic some anglers employ is replacing their lures’ treble hooks with single hooks.

The best advice I have to share when pursuing fish that you intend to release is to use heavy enough line and tackle to keep the fight short, so the fish doesn’t wear itself out to the extent that it may not survive once you do set if free, and to minimize the time the fish is out of the water and being handled during the release. I cut the line off and leave hooks that are deeply embedded in a fish’s mouth and hold fish in the water until they are recovered enough to swim out of my hands on their own. If it’s a large fish, I’ll stay in the area for a minute or two to make sure the fish can stay down on its own and doesn’t surface again; if it does, I repeat the revival process until the fish succumbs or swims off to live – and fight – another day.

Dan’s Pick
people on Avalon GEOfish 23 CLX
Avalon GEOfish 23 CLX
If you are seeking a pontoon model with premium fishing and comfort features, I recommend a good look at the GEOfish line from Avalon. There are several excellent choices, and I have chosen the CLX 23-footer to highlight simply because it’s the first model to pop-up on the website, while representing the entire line. Beyond looking great, standard equipment for the helm alone includes a wash down kit with sprayer and pump, tach, volt, and fuel gauges, 12-volt power receptacle, GPS speedometer, Fusion RA-210 radio with four Fusion EL speakers, SeaStar hydraulic tilt steering, USB charging port, a battery selector switch and a removable windshield protecting a slick sport low back driver’s chair anchoring a playpen that boasts suspension seating featuring flow-through ventilation and creative storage areas.

Avid anglers will appreciate dedicated fishing chairs with locking seat bases, a Garmin 72SV GPS/color fishfinder/depth finder, rear fishing center with rod holders and recirculating livewell, as well as a tackle center.

If you like what you see here, check the Avalon GEOfish website for the other pontoons in the line, which may offer a model dialed-in to your fishing/cruising needs.

Avalon GEOfish 23 CLX specifications table